We surfed at Nalu in Ibaragi on Sunday.
We are favorite in here recently.
Because of not so crowd, clean water, 
and good waves!!
When I wiped out, my board hitted my body!
So my rib got crack.....
When it hitted me, I couldn't breath!!
When it hitted me, I couldn't breath!!
I felt death.....
When I cough and sneeze, I get terrible pain!!!!
When I cough and sneeze, I get terrible pain!!!!
We will go to Fukushima with my friends next weekend,
Can I surf???
Please GOT!
Ena was very tired because of surfing very well.
Sunset is very beautiful.
Sunset feel the autumn.
Summer is gone.
But it is still very hot !! isn't it???
I cracked 2 ribs surfing north shore. I was in bed for 4 months and couldn't surf for 6 months. When I was OK to surf, I started on the longboard. Now I'm a professional.
返信削除Oh dear.....
返信削除But! I think that it's your success story!!
OK! I will be a professional!
.......just kidding
I think that I'm not so bad than you because I'm not in bed.
but....itaidesu....
get better soon!
返信削除Thanks!
返信削除